Linda

I still remember the amazing dining experience we had four years ago, when we first visited 22 Broad Street in Bethel. It was a perfect fall evening and we dined on their charming screened-in porch. Tiny decorative white lights, intimate tables, a gentle breeze and an extraordinary Italian meal remain in my mind.

So when we recently revisited the restaurant, it was great to see that it is still thriving, and the food and service here are as superior as we remembered. Our March visit ruled out the porch as a dining option, but the interior of this historic house is cozy and elegant. A wood fire was blazing in the fireplace, flanked by decorative magnum bottles of wine and wine glasses, along with a large bouquet of flowers and a mirror over the mantel. They have replicated the original tin ceilings and beautiful cornice that surround both small dining rooms. Nice lighting and braided rugs round out the peaceful atmosphere.

The chefs make the breads and desserts right here. How they get their rosemary focaccia bread so light and airy, I do not know. While George was having a second piece of our flatbread appetizer, I snuck a few more of those little focaccia slices.

The flatbread ($8.22) choice changes daily here, and our version had capicola and pesto along with the usual toppings of mozzarella and hot cherry pepper rings. The thin, crusty bread loaded with toppings is perfection, especially dipped into their outstanding marinara sauce. “Holy Mackerel,” hubby says after the first bite. I concur, it really is holy mackerel worthy.

We split the green salad ($9.22) of baby arugula with deep-fried gorgonzola balls the last time we visited, and I reminded George that we thought this salad was very special. “Turns out we were right,” he remarks. Peppery arugula and grape tomatoes are tossed with fresh lemon juice and olive oil, but it’s the warm fried gorgonzola that puts this one in a category of its own. It’s both fresh and light.

One of the “House Favorite” and “Smith Favorite” dishes here is the Crispy Eggplant Lasagna ($20.22). Our server Chuck, who has worked here nine years and was very friendly and helpful, tells us that they change the menu here routinely, but this dish always remains on the menu. On the first bite, I remembered that this lasagna is one of a kind because there’s no pasta in it. Layers of eggplant are fried, then layered with cheeses, marinara sauce and roasted red peppers. The pasta comes as a side of rigatoni with that incredible marinara sauce.

I’d let George know that I was ordering the eggplant this time, and the only way I got around that was to promise him he could help himself. This dish had a good dose of herbs and pepper — it’s wonderfully different. The veggie side was a mix of broccoli, green beans, red peppers and cauliflower cooked to crunchy perfection.

George

Our excuse for returning here is that we are writing a travel book this year for Islandport Press about our favorite inns and restaurants, and all of the columns have to have been written within the past two years. We really wanted to include 22 Broad Street in the book, but our column was published in 2011. So back we went.

It’s hard to imagine, given the delightful experience we had here in 2011, but I think it has gotten even better. Let’s start with the dessert. When Chuck went through the list, which included “Frozen Moose,” I wrote it down. Looking at my notes, Lin said, very wryly, “That mousse doesn’t have two o’s.” Chuck got a kick out of that.

Alas, the frozen mousse was not yet frozen, so we had creme brulee ($6.22), a super creamy standout. The charred taste of the sugar crust is so good. We loved this dessert because it isn’t overly sweet. It was big enough to share (at least according to Linda).

The three dining rooms and bar were packed, but no one encouraged us to move along and we lingered here for nearly three hours, watching an amazing array of dishes go by. Their selection of wine is superb and, anything Italy fans that we are, we selected a nice Italian Chianti, Santa Cristina Chianti Superiore 2013. The sommelier brought it to the proper temperature before serving it, a nice touch that you don’t often see in restaurants.

I could have made a meal out of the flatbread appetizer. All the portions here are huge, especially considering the reasonable prices. Two folks at the next table ordered glasses of wine and appetizers, then had to apologize to their server when they were unable to order entrees. “I understand,” said the server, very politely.

My entree ($28.22) was a special that night, scallops over linguini with artichoke hearts, asparagus, tomato and cheese, in a delightful brandy cream sauce. It was really, really good, and I had a really, really lot of it left over.

While informal and comfortable, this restaurant delivers a very special experience, including your server cleaning the crumbs off the table after each course (OK, they were all in my vicinity).

Yes, it turns out we were right about 22 Broad Street in 2011. It’s fabulous still.

Visit George’s website — georgesmithmaine.com — for book reviews, outdoor news and all Travelin’ Maine(rs) columns, found listed in the “Best of Maine” section.

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