View 14 photos

South Bay in Lubec is one of four great arms of the complex Cobscook Bay system of bays, inlets, coves and islands, which also includes Straight, Whiting, Dennys, Johnson, East and Sipp Bays. Flushed twice-daily by the enormous tides ranging from 18 to 26 feet, the incredible nutrient-rich ecosystem of Cobscook Bay provides important habitat for a diversity of birds, animal life and sea creatures. 

Great South Bay Trails is part of Cobscook Shores, a network of 20 waterfront parklands in the far Downeast region owned and managed by Butler Parklands. The private non-profit conservation organization was founded by Gilbert Butler, who has close ties to Maine dating back many decades. Butler Parklands’ work spans the Western Hemisphere from Maine, New York and South Carolina to Chile, Argentina and Uruguay.  

On a beautiful afternoon a while back, I join Matt Ells, Associate Director of Parklands for Butler Parklands, for a pleasant 3/4-mile walk to the shore of South Bay. Ells is eager to showcase the preserve, a union of three different properties, and their new trail, a roughly 4-mile lollipop loop that was built in response to the public’s desire for longer hikes in the Cobscook Bay neighborhood. 

A staircase of wood and crushed stone leads down to the edge of South Bay and a view of Long Island and several smaller islands. Typical of Cobscook Shores’ lands, there is a distinctly wild feel here and no sign of development. Ells points out the lower shoreline route leading around the corner out of sight, a unique adventure that’s negotiable only at low water. Prompted by a smiling Ells, I make a plan to return and do it.  

“The Great South Bay Trails were designed and built by Jed Talbot (OPB Trailworks in Turner, Maine), one of the best in the business,” said Ells. “The low route is accessible for two hours on either side of low tide, but just in case, there are two escape trails midway along. You should allow three or four hours to fully appreciate the experience. You really get a huge bang for your buck out there.” 

Timing is everything. A couple days later, at dead low tide at 8 a.m., my wife and I arrive at Great South Bay Trails at the base of the steps. We strike off over the slick rocks and the sprawling beds of rockweed and kelp. It’s slow going at first trying to maintain our balance, but we soon develop a rhythm and move along more easily, enjoying the solitude and the scenery, the cliff gardens and the tidepools. 

Slipping, sliding and splashing along for a delightful 1 1/2 miles, we reach the far end of Brickyard Cove and the steps up into the woods. As we meander back along the bluffs, high above the shoreline we just traversed, we pass newly installed benches and interpretive displays at several overlooks. Pausing at each, we realize without question that we’ve just hiked one of the most unique sections of trail anywhere on the Maine coast. 

“We’re always looking to improve the visitor experience,” said Charlie Howe, Butler Parklands’ Director of Parklands. “Cobscook Shores has expanded its original operations on the south side of Cobscook Bay to now include the north and west sides of the bay, places such as Hardscrabble River Preserve, Riverside Fields, Clark Point Preserve and Leighton Fields. Altogether we’ve got 25 miles of trails on 17 miles of protected shorefront. We’re really encouraged by our progress.” 

Active versus passive conservation is at the core of Butler Parklands’ philosophy. “We’re conserving lands to be used,” Ells said. Browse through the beefy Cobscook Shores trail guide and map (available free at trailhead kiosks) and you’ll be amazed at the wealth of outdoor opportunities, not only on Butler Parklands but the many other federal, state, municipal and private land trust lands in the region as well. And more is in the works. 

Underscoring Butler’s conservation approach is a robust youth outdoor education program that gives local school children the chance to spend quality time outdoors participating in mountain biking, kayaking and canoeing, and cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, all at no cost. Kids from 18 area schools have accounted for 6,800 visits to date, a mighty fine way to build the next generation of environmental stewards. Well done, in so many ways.  

Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island is a Triple Crown hiker, freelance writer and author of three hiking guides. Connect with Carey on Facebook and Instagram and at [email protected].