I was checking out at my local supermarket when the cashier said, “What are you going to make good with that chicken?”

I looked at her blankly for a second. I was just going to bake the breast pieces. Then I regained myself and said: “Nothing fancy. At this time of year, it’s really all about the local veggies I’m going to use.”

She looked just a little bit disappointed.

I get it that not everyone shares my enthusiasm for the Maine produce season. Or even for vegetables in general. But I haven’t eaten red meat in 35 years, and just eat small amounts of poultry and fish. I mostly consume vegetables and fruit.

So right now, I’m in my glory. I’ve got chard, summer squash, basil and parsley growing in my garden. Garlic, potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes are on their way. The local farmers’ markets have provided me with green beans, radishes and kale. I also visit farm stands for strawberries and blueberries, and the occasional exciting find, such as English peas.

Snap peas are the most popular right now, but I like the old-fashioned pod varieties. I love to sit on the front porch and pop them open.

I’ve tried to grow them myself, but never have much luck. It’s the same with radishes. And although I usually grow lots of kale, this year I ran into a problem: squirrels.

I noticed during planting season that squirrels like to dig wherever they see soil that has been disturbed. I had to be vigilant and check every day to make sure my newly installed vegetable plants hadn’t been uprooted. Most everything survived to the point the squirrels lost interest, except for the kale.

They munched through three plantings. I was near tears. My husband, Paul, conceived a plan using a mini fence of chicken wire to enclose a portion of the garden, and we tried a fourth planting. They attacked again, but we managed to save two plants. Paul nurtured these in pots and kept them alive, but what would we do while we were away on vacation? I thought we could hide them amongst the Swiss chard. By then, the squirrels hadn’t dug in my garden for weeks, so it was worth a try.

It worked. The kale is still growing, although it’s not ready to harvest yet.

I am somewhat mollified, but that early loss still rankles. What I love to do this time of year is to go out to the garden to pick our dinner. Some kale, some chard, some squash, some herbs. I sauté it all in olive oil, serve it over rice or pasta, and it’s delicious. Plus, it couldn’t be simpler. I pick just what I need, and no more.

Things get more complicated at the farmers’ markets and farm stands, because sometimes I have to buy more than I need — i.e., a big bunch of radishes — and sometimes I buy more than I need because it looks good. For example, I bought a quart of strawberries and a pint of blueberries recently. I also had raspberries in the garden at the time. That’s a lot of berries.

The cardinal rule of eating local is that you have to enjoy the seasonal aspect. Maine berries are only available for a few weeks, one after the other, with some overlap. Given my obsession with local produce, I ought to be an avid canner. However, I tried it once and hated it. I do freeze my own raspberries, but that’s the extent of my preservation efforts.

Instead, I just feasted on berries. A “triple berry crisp,” topped with whipped cream, turned out well, and I enjoyed a mélange of strawberries, blueberries and raspberries on my Cheerios for a couple of weeks.

I am eagerly awaiting my first wild Maine blueberries. In fact, Maine Wild Blueberry Weekend happens in a couple of days. I’m thinking I will need to bake a pie.

Using local produce requires planning, but also flexibility. During the colder months, I rely on frozen vegetables. They have a long shelf life and are convenient. With my staples of peas, broccoli, corn and spinach in the freezer, I can pivot to any of my favorite recipes.

At this time of year, I first have to determine what produce is available. And remember not to purchase various items at the supermarket the day before the farmers’ market. I have to use what’s in my garden when it’s ripe. I have to use up what I buy elsewhere. Once I buy that big bunch of radishes, Paul and I will be eating radishes for several days in a row, or they’ll go bad.

It’s a shift in perspective and habit, and I find I only reach my stride around now.

But it’s worth the effort. I know I’m eating healthy. My diet is more sustainable than it is in February. I enjoy connecting with the earth, and I think it’s important to support local farmers.

I’m especially happy when I compose a nifty little salad with my own lettuce, and as I admire it, a bug scurries off the plate.

My dinner never gets any fresher than that. As Martha Stewart would say, that’s a good thing.

Liz Soares welcomes email at lizzie621@icloud.com.

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