I’m a big fan of tuna and that’s as true on the grill in summer and fall as under the broiler in midwinter. Usually I turn to tapenade as a topping, but I was ready for something different.

I found that in “Gastro Grilling,” by Ted Reader. He prepares the tuna with some heat – four kinds of peppercorns, plus hot pepper flakes for an extra level of spice. (If you don’t have time to run around looking for different peppercorns, feel free to use whatever you have in the pantry.)

It’s a snap to make the rub and pat it on the tuna before grilling. But say you want to branch out a bit more on the dinner menu.

You can make a compound butter with green onions to use as a dollop on the finished tuna. And for only another moment of your time, you can add green onions to the grilled mix. With this combo, dinner will look as pretty as it is flavorful.

TUNA PEPPER STEAK WITH SMASHED GREEN ONION BUTTER

Keep your tuna icy cold before grilling; this will keep the flesh firm. Plan the timing so you can soak the green onions for 30 minutes before putting them over the heat.

From “Gastro Grilling,” by Ted Reader.

Serves 4

Smashed Green Onion Butter (see recipe)

1 to 2 bunches green onions, trimmed (bigger onions work better)

1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns

1 tablespoon cracked Szechuan peppercorns

2 teaspoons cracked green peppercorns

2 teaspoons cracked white peppercorns

2 teaspoons cracked coriander seeds

1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon brown sugar

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 tuna steaks (each about 6 ounces), cut 11/2 inch thick

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Prepare the Smashed Green Onion Butter. Soak the green onions for about 30 minutes in cold water.

To make the peppercorn rub: In a bowl, mix together the four peppercorns, coriander, hot pepper flakes, kosher salt and brown sugar. Add the garlic, soy sauce and olive oil. Stir to make a pepper slurry and set aside.

To prepare the tuna: Fire up the grill to 550 to 650 degrees.

Rub the tuna steaks with the pepper rub, pressing the seasoning into the flesh so that it adheres.

Grill the tuna steaks for 1 to 2 minutes per side, directly over the hot flame for rare. It won’t take long. Remember that the more done the tuna is, the drier it becomes. Rare to medium is the usual recommendation.

While grilling the tuna, add the green onions to the heat for 2 to 3 minutes, turning until lightly charred and tender, yet still bright green. Season with a little salt and pepper, if desired. Remove from grill.

SMASHED GREEN ONION BUTTER

From “Gastro Grilling,” by Ted Reader.

Makes about 1/2 cup

4 green onions

Kosher salt to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 shallot, finely chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened

Place the green onions onto a cutting board. Take a heavy-bottomed frying pan and smash them. You want them to split apart to extract their juices. Roughly chop them up and place in a bowl. Season the smashed onions with a little kosher salt and the lemon juice. Add the shallot, cilantro and softened butter. Mix to incorporate.

Transfer to a small bowl and set aside, or place mixture on a sheet of plastic wrap and shape into the dimensions of a stick of butter. (Store in the refrigerator if not using that day.)