Pickle brine is not an insignificant substance.
According to Pickle Packers International, Inc., a trade association for the pickled vegetable industry, Americans consume more than 2.5 billion pounds of commercial pickles each year. Even before you start counting the ones we pickle at home, we’re still talking about 20 billion pickles annually, folks.
All of which have been sitting in a brine comprising some combination of water, salt, sugar and spices, a mixture most of us don’t think twice about dumping down the drain. Being resolute about using up used pickle brine across your culinary repertoire is a small, but significant, step to take for a greener new year.
Based on the eight jars of pickles in my cupboard, I estimate a quart jar can hold 10 large, 16 medium or 24 small pickles. Once the pickles, regardless of their size, are gone, each of the jars is left with 1¼ to 1½ cups of what you can now think of as liquid flavor.
You can drink it, especially before and after a tough workout, when it can help relieve muscle cramps (thanks to the sodium and vinegar) and help replenish electrolytes, which renders expensive, plastic-bottled, sugary sports drinks unnecessary. Given that it is the day after New Year’s Eve, I can also offer up pickle brine as a hangover cure.
If you are taking it straight up, sipping is the right approach. A big chug might not sit well in your tummy. You could always strain the brine into Popsicle molds and freeze it if you need to further monitor the speed at which you take it in.
Pickling expert Marissa McClellan, who wrote “Food in Jars,” “Preserving by the Pint” and “Naturally Sweet Food in Jars,” says you can use spent pickle brine to make more pickles – but only if you are making a batch of refrigerator pickles. And we’re not just talking about cucumbers; you can quick-pickle sliced red onions, grated carrots, hard-boiled eggs, garlic, artichoke hearts or any other soft vegetables. McClellan warns that once a brine has been processed in either a water bath or a pressure canner and has sat in a jar on the shelf with a batch of pickles submerged in it, the acidity of the brine will not likely be high enough to make a new batch safe to store unrefrigerated.
Cathy Barrow, whose book “Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry” guides cooks through sundry ways of using every bit of the canned goods in your larder deliciously, suggests using pickle juice to brine chicken. A basic brine – essentially a salt-and-water solution with optional flavorings – tenderizes meat and allows it to absorb the flavored liquid. If you want to cut the sourness, add a little brown sugar. If you want only a hint of pickle, cut the brine with an equal amount of water.
You can use pickle brine anywhere you’d use vinegar, such as salad dressings, marinades and barbecue sauces. You can use it – albeit in shorter measure – in a dirty martini instead of olive juice or to tart up a Bloody Mary, swapping out the celery garnish for a pickle spear, of course. And you can use a dash of pickle juice anywhere a heavy or flat-tasting dish need a bit of zip – like when you’re boiling a pot of potatoes, mixing up meatloaf, baking macaroni and cheese, steaming vegetables or making hummus.
The one Internet-fueled idea I found hard to swallow was using pickle juice to make bread. The recipes I read recommended a 1:1 swap with warm water used in standard bread recipes. I wasn’t thrown off by the potential taste – I thought that would be great – but I worried the acid would diminish the bread’s rise. In fact, it doesn’t. My homemade pretzel dough rose to twice its size in the expected 90 minutes. And the finished product was soft, chewy perfection with a pleasing tang that allowed me to forgo my usual mustard on the side.
Christine Burns Rudalevige is a food writer, a recipe developer and tester and a cooking teacher in Brunswick. Contact her at: [email protected].
PICKLE BRINE PRETZELS
Trust me. Try these before you turn your nose up at them. If you don’t have a jar of barley malt in the cupboard, use molasses.
Makes 8 pretzels
1¼ cups warm, strained pickle juice
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1½ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup rye flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ cup baking soda
1 tablespoon barley malt syrup or molasses
1 egg, whisked with 2 tablespoons warm water
Coarse sea salt
Combine the pickle juice and yeast in a measuring cup. Stir to dissolve the yeast. Let the mixture sit 5 minutes until the yeast produces a foam.
Combine the flours, sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl. Pour the pickle juice-yeast mixture into the bowl. Use a dough whisk or a wooden spoon to form a floury, shaggy dough. Turn the dough out onto a work surface that has been sprinkled with flour. Knead dough for 5 to 7 minutes until it is only slightly tacky and holds a ball shape. Wipe out the bowl, return the dough to it, cover and let rise in a warm place until it doubles in volume, about 90 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and divide it into 8 pieces. Working with 1 piece of dough a time, roll dough into a long (about 18 inches), skinny rope against the counter using the palms of your hands. Lift the ends of the rope toward the top of your work surface and cross them. Cross them 1 more time to make a twist, then fold the twist back down over the bottom loop to form a pretzel shape. Press down where the pretzel ends cross over the bottom loop of the pretzel so that it holds together. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough. Allow the pretzels to rest and puff up a bit for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with silicon mats.
Fill a large pot halfway with water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the baking soda and barley syrup, which will produce a head of foam. Reduce the heat to medium. Lower 2 to 3 pretzels into the water, simmer for 60 seconds, turning once. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pretzels to the lined baking sheets.
Brush the pretzels with the egg and water mixture and sprinkle them with salt. Bake until they are deep brown and glossy, 12 to 15 minutes.
These are best served warm, but will keep for a day stored in a paper bag.
A BOOK we're REALLY looking forward to in 2017
The Green Plate Special column published in Source since its inception in 2014 has become a book. The “Green Plate Special” cookbook offers green eating ideas, strategies and recipes designed to help readers cook more sustainably, one delicious green plate at a time. Written by Christine Burns Rudalevige and published by Islandport Press in conjunction with MaineToday Media, the book will be in local bookstores in early summer. Watch for updates on signings and cook-the-book events around the state later this year.
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